Good Morning!

I decided to go to Coba Mayan ruins today. I haven’t seen Coba offered as an excursion on any of the cruises I’ve been on. I think it would be too long of a trip. This very well may be my only chance to do it. I need to be at the resort tomorrow for my COVID test and I don’t want to push a big trip like this back to my last day. If I’m going to do it, today is the day.

I am hoping to get on the road early so I could have some of the afternoon back at the resort. I’m all about business–coffee while getting ready.

Quick breakfast in the buffet.

I’m down to 20 pesos. I may not be able to use dollars in Coba. The front desk girl says you get a better exchange rate at the ATM. I need so few pesos it would probably be a bad deal for me. But she really seemed to want me to use the ATM. It’s in the convention center she says.

I walked all around this thing. It turns out the ATM is outside.

An employee helped me find it.

The ATM gave me a dispense error. I have to go back to the lobby.

I got a different front desk agent. This one can’t understand me. He asks for my room number. I say 5815. That’s room 5851?  No 5815. That’s room 5852? No 5-8-1-5. 5815. 

Once we got my room number figured out, I gave him $15 for 258 pesos which I think is enough. Plus I have the 20 pesos. And I know the collectivo driver would take dollars on the return trip if I absolutely needed it. But I think I’m going to be good with 278 pesos.

I asked the bellmen how long of a wait it would be for the shuttle. They said 20 minutes. I decide to walk it.

I’m shortcutting  through the parking lot

It’s been less than five minutes since I left the hotel and here comes the shuttle. I look down at the ground in disgust. The driver stops. I look and see I’m not far from the entrance. I wave him off.

I cross the street to collectivo hunt.

It doesn’t take long. Less than a minute and I have a collectivo.

And here we are. I have to get to Tulum. Then I need to head north. How am I going to get there? I have no idea yet.

I’m going to guess Ave Coba  is where I need to get off.

I told the driver I was trying to get to Coba. He’s going to get me where I need to be for the last leg.

The driver dropped me off and said walk to the stop light and catch the collectivo at the corner.

I’ve been sitting here 20 minutes. I hope he isn’t waiting for this thing to fill up. Hopefully he just leaves at 9:30 otherwise I’m going to have to see what’s up. 

In other news I didn’t fully charge my phone and my portable charger seems to be not working anymore so I’ve got to make 82% last me.

Oh wow. The collectivo can’t leave until it has six people. That could be all day. I wish I knew that going in. I asked the collective driver how to get to the bus station. He said it’s two blocks down the street.

I walked the two blocks to the bus station. The next bus to Coba is at 10:36. I ask a taxi driver. He quotes me the equivalent of 50 dollars. I walk back down by the collectivo. There are still no passengers. I figure I have time to kill so I’ll get a better picture of the Tulum sign.

I walk back across the street. There are still no passengers on the collectivo. I stop at this restaurant where a waiter had tried to get me to eat on my way to the bus station. I want to help the guy out so I’m sitting at one of his tables instead of the bar. They don’t serve beer until 10 but I have one on order.

I don’t know what the bus ticket will cost. The last time I rode on a bus in Mexico was four years ago. I paid the equivalent of $3.50 for a round trip ticket from Progreso to Merida at the time.

I probably have time for a ride or two.

That beer was 50 pesos. I gave him 70 and walked back down to the bus station. Almost nobody speaks English around here but walking down the street this guy screamed out “welcome big spender!”

My ticket was 55 pesos or about $2.90. I think that’s a one way ticket. After paying I look and I only have 100 pesos left. I figured I probably needed $150 to get my ticket for the ruins and get a bus ticket back. I didn’t budget for that beer. I go to the ATM and take out another 300 pesos to be safe. With the ATM fee that’s $21.

The bus driver took my ticket and printed out this.

This will at least be a comfortable ride for less than $3.

Too bad I didn’t bring a charging cable.

Like I said pretty much nobody speaks English around here. This is how I found out what time this bus was. I gave the guy my phone.

The driver just kind of dropped me off on the side of the road. I’m going to be honest with you. I have no idea how I’m going to get back. This isn’t a bus station. This isn’t a bus stop. There is no schedule or ticket window. I don’t know where the other people on the bus were going but I’m the only one who got off here. I guess I’ll worry about how to get back later because I am right where I want to be.

This is a great drop off spot. It looks like a short walk to the ruins on the left. To the right are a few small structures the people around here refer to as “downtown.”

Coba means “stirred waters” which is believed to be due to the lagoons that surround it.

This looks like the entrance.

80 pesos for a ticket. There are a bunch of tour guides wanting you to hire them for $15. At this point it’s 11:30 and I heard there’s a 1pm bus and a 3pm bus so I want to try for 1pm.

I did not realize how big this place is. The entire thing was 70 kilometers. 55,000 Mayans lived in the area. The portion we’re looking at is just a couple kilometers.

This is the first grouping which is the Coba Group.

The first grouping includes the second tallest temple in Coba. This is known as La Iglesia (The Church). We talked about Stelas during my trip to Tulum. Coba has many Stelas mostly in front of the structures like this one.

This is very similar to the entrance and exit to Tulum.

The Mayan ball court is easy for me to recognize. It’s very similar to the one I saw at Lamanai in Belize.

They have bicycle rentals and pedicab drivers at the front. Now I’m starting to understand why.

There’s no way I’m making the 1pm bus. This is the first time I have seen Mayan ruins this spread out. I have already walked a good distance. According to this I have to walk 1KM to the left and 1KM back. Then I have to walk 1KM straight and 1KM back. Then back to the entrance which is probably another KM. I definitely should’ve looked into the bicycle rental.

I decided to go left which should take me to the main temple. 

This is the King’s Palace. There’s actually a lady behind this tree with the three branches. She is conducting an extensive photo shoot and I don’t have time to wait for her to finish. So I used a tree to remove her from this photo. Her husband is outside of this shot taking the pictures. Poor guy.

This is another Mayan ball court.

The game they played on these courts is believed to be the world’s first organized team sport. Teams of 2-4 players would try to bounce a nine pound rubber ball, which was made from tree sap, to the other team’s side without using their hands. They most frequently used their hips. They would hit the ball with their hip, many times throwing themselves down on that hard surface which had a smooth limestone finish at the time. When the ball rolled back down another player would hit it back up with their hip.

Once they got the ball bouncing they could try to bounce it through the hoop. It is said that the hoop wasn’t on the original ball courts and bouncing it through the hoop, which was added later, would result in an automatic win. Most games were won with points which were scored when a team let the ball bounce too many times or go out of bounds. The scoring seems similar to that of tennis. It has been said that some players were killed getting hit in the head with a ball. The Mayan ball game, not tennis.

This is the ball court from a distance.

This is Xaibe (crossroads). It is believed to have been used as a watch tower because it is near the intersection of four major roads.

This is the back side of Xaibe.

Near the main temple is the only place you can purchase drinks other than by the entrance.

We are in the Nohoch Mul group.

This is the main temple Ixmoja which is also known as the Nohoch Mul pyramid. Nochoch Mul means Great Mound. It is the tallest temple in Coba and the second tallest Mayan temple in existence. At 138 feet, it is 30 feet taller than the High Temple I climbed in Belize.

Anytime I see structures like this, it makes me wonder with that native Americans were doing. Teepees and wigwams? It’s embarrassing. That’s why when I go to the Mayan ruins and they ask where I’m from, I tell them I’m from Egypt. Beat that.

Seeing this roped off was a huge disappointment for me. I really wanted to take in the view from the top of this temple. I wish I could say “I’ll just do it next time” but I really don’t know if there will be a next time. This isn’t an easy place to get to. I don’t even know how I’m getting back at this point.

Since this site was closed for over five months, archaeologists are going to have to clean and inspect all 120 steps before people are allowed to climb again. If that ever happens, maybe I’ll be back.

This is the King’s Palace again on the way out. I will later learn that going back behind it would shortcut me to the next section.

When I got back to the fork in the road where you could go left or straight I had a pedicab driver offer to drive me to the last two sets of ruins and back to the entrance for $5. I said let’s go.

I just came from Nohoch Mul. We are going to head to the Macanxoc group next then Pinturas on the way out.

We came to a part he said was the actual Mayan highway. Mayans traveled at night and their highways were made of white limestone which was lit up at night by the moonlight. Here is a video of part of it.

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This is the Macanxoc group. The pedicab driver dropped me off and had me walk back into the woods to get to these ruins.

This group includes eight stelas and 18 alters. Stela 1 has dates inscribed on it including the 21st of December 2012 which can be interpreted as the end of times or the beginning of a new Mayan era.

I got turned around and forgot which direction I came in from. I was the only person around and there was no clear exit. Finally I saw another ruin through the trees and walked over to it. Then some other people came and I just went back they way they came from and found my guide. It is very easy to get lost back here.

That’s my driver in the blue shirt on the left. He’s wondering what took me so long.

The last part we’re going to is called paintings.

This is the Pyramid of the Frescoes which was built in the later years of the city.

The Pyramid of the Frescoes had paintings in the top room.

If we zoom in you can still see Mayan colors up top.

This is the King’s Palace again. Paintings is right behind. That piece of knowledge can save you some walking if you’re ever here.

Coba eventually lost a regional power struggle with Chichen Iza but wasn’t completely vacated until the Spanish conquered the area.

At some point during the ride I knew I was going to give the driver $10 instead of the $5 he asked for. It turns out you don’t pay them direct you pay the cashier. So I gave him 5 and the cashier 5. They gave me this receipt.

Back at the entrance.

They have some shopping outside.

At this point it’s after 1:30. I figure I missed the 1pm bus and I probably have an hour to kill. I’m thinking of getting beers in this bar but I want to confirm with the guy at the gate. He tells me the bus is actually 3:30 but it’s a second class so it could be later. 

I asked about a taxi. He said he could get me one for $30 and he can have it here in five minutes. I said let’s do it. 

Did I think it was worth $50 to save 30 minutes earlier? No. Do I think it’s worth $30 now to save 2-3 hours now? Yes!

1:38 I’m in the cab.

He dropped me right by the collectivo “station” as they call it. I like to call it…the side of the road.

I took a seat up front and thought it would have to totally fill up before someone would sit next to me. Nope! This clown in a sombrero with a duffel bag thought would be a great spot to put his bag and crowd me up against the window while he had plenty of room to spread out

I got in the he collectivo at 2:25 and was back at 3:10. That entire trip with collectivos between Barcelo and Tulum, a bus to Coba, ticket to Coba, pedicab for the second half of it, and a taxi back to Tulum, cost about $45 before tips. If I had waited for the bus in Coba instead of taking the taxi, it would’ve dropped down under $20.

I didn’t see a bus so I decided to start walking to the resort.

Here are some views of the thrill park which seems to be COVID closed.

Of course the bus is here.

I was walking right by the buffet so I decided to see if was open. It was. For live stations they have a meat one that has chicken, lamb, pork chops, or prime rib. I grabbed a prime rib. I don’t know what that grill temp was but he toasted this pretty quick.

They also had a live seafood cooking station with swordfish, squid, mussels, etc. They had a pasta station as well.

I picked up a couple of desserts.

But then I saw the bigger dessert table with better looking deserts. I decided I should try some. The one I liked and ate all of it was the cream puff looking one at the bottom

Spicy Bloody Mary.

I stopped by the pool bar on the way back to the room and ordered two banana daiquiris. He poured me the strawberry daiquiri out of the machine. I told him I wanted a banana daiquiri. He says daiquiri. I say banana. He says not strawberry? I say no. Banana. He gets another bartender to come over who tells him how to make a banana daiquiri.

And I am back in the room drinking daiquiris and watching baseball.

Now I’m having to dig into my Corona stash.

Good news is my charger is working again. I am at the lobby bar for some predinner drinks.

The bartenders here don’t impress me at all. I asked him for a sweet drink made with rum. He says rum and coke. I’m like no and you don’t even have Coke. You have Pepsi. He says pina colada? daiquiri? I’m looking for something that isn’t frozen. “Special drink with rum?” Yes. 
 

He made me a rum sour. Sour as heck . It’s probably rum, lemonade, and sour & sour mix.

I’m going to have to name my own drinks here and not make it too complicated. Vodka and orange juice.

Now I have to go to dinner and my right leg has fallen asleep. I blame it on what they had on the big screen TV. It should be on basketball playoffs or baseball.

I am at the French restaurant tonight.

Here is the menu.

I think my cream cheese bread didn’t have cream cheese last time. No doubt this time. Very good.

Okay I’ve never tried caviar so here we go.

She asked if I wanted more bread. I was like uhhh….cream cheese cream cheeese. It’s really good.

This is the salmon salad and more cream cheese bread.

Shrimp cappuccino 

That was really good 

Lobster

Lobster was good. I liked it better than their Wellington. 

Crepes

I didn’t like the crepes. They were too soggy. I just ate the ice cream. I thought it would be more like the JiJi’s dessert with the crepes rolled up and ice cream on the inside and the sauce on top. That’s on the Carnival Vista class ships.

I am outside waiting on the shuttle with 30 other people and for once I will be at a show on time.

I made it about seven minutes early. There was a single chair and table on the end almost like they left it there just for me. The show started two minutes early by AT&T’s clock.

It’s a giraffe!

Here are a couple of clips from the show.

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After the show I headed to the casino.

I got a table pretty quick. It was up and down. Then an older guy jumped in. Apparently they will let a 4th person stand up and play–at least they did for him. When the other two guys went out he had his kids take the seats. They were probably 18-19 years old. They didn’t know how to play but he helped them. It was up and down again until he and one of his kids went out. Then it was just me and the other kid. The cards turned and I went from down $75 to up $125. I played until the other kid went out and I left up $75. 

Here is the thing. Every time you buy chips they give you a slip and when you cash out you have to take it to the cashier. I thought that was weird. Now I know why. They tax you 7% on your winnings. So I bring a ticket with $100 and I give them $175 in chips, they tax me on the $75. So I won 75 but I only get 69. Technically I won $80. I gave $5 to the dealer.

Lobby music/potential dancing 

Now that’s a clever name!

The midnight seaweed battle continues. Get them while they sleep! Take them by surprise!

I just thought of a potential way around some of the casino tax. The thing to do if you’re coming back would be just cash out the $100. Keep the $75 in chips. Bring them back tomorrow and play with them. If I lose it tomorrow I never got taxed.

Ultimately if you win over the course of the week you have to pay it but it’s better to do it once at the end because there may be nights that you lose. You just have to make sure you cash out before you leave for good.

And if you have a friend or significant other who loses and you win, they can use their ticket to cash out some of your chips without being taxed and vice versa. All of this would be good information to know going in. That’s why I’m here.

Tomorrow is my COVID test and this journey is nearing it’s end. Good night.

Continue to Barcelo Maya Riviera: Day 7

• all-inclusive
• Barcelo Maya Grand Resort
• Barcelo Maya Riviera
• Coba
• Mexico